Dining Out Boston

John Harvard's Brewhouse may be Harvard Square's only tourist attraction where Harvard students actually hang out, despite the garrish decorations devoted to the university namesake and the strick ID policy.

At one time the over-sized, underground brewpub offered half-price appetizers on Mondays after 10pm, drawing schmoozing business school grads and clamoring freshman. Now, however, John Harvard's seems to be striving for a more sophisticated feel. A bumbling, over-eager host sputtered out some nightly specials and crusty seasoned Italian bread and shallow dishes of olive oil were promptly served after drink orders. Appetizers like Pub Nachos ($8) and Spinach & Artichoke Dip ($7.30) are now referred to as "Tavern Tapas" and Surf & Turf ($18) and Mahi Mahi ($16) share menu space with classic burgers ($7.30-8).

Ariel and I had better things to discuss (boys) than the incongruent aesthetic and culinary renovations, and shortly after sliding in the dark wooden corner booth, we kicked back with some Original Sin Ciders. Had I not just recovered from a weekend-long hangover, I might have indulged in John Harvard's award-winning ales, stouts, lagers, which are best tasted in sampler form. In the past, the seasonal brews have proven to be better than similar varieties at offered at your average micro-brewery.

When my Meatloaf ($11) arrived, I noticed the grilled slices were propped up in a "V" over the creamy garlic mashed potatoes, and under-cooked asparagus spears, in an attempt to render my homestyle meal something artful. An overly-sweet red wine sauce moistened the uniformly dense meatloaf, which was satisfactory in taste and texture but hardly homemade.

In retrospect, I realize that by ordering an "entree" I fell for John Harvard's bid for unsuccessful sophistication, and therefore rightly suffered. Ariel knew better. Her Buffalo Chicken Sandwich ($9), a breaded, dripping chicken breast served with lettuce, tomato, and blue cheese, was oversized, greasy, and delicious: exactly what she paid for.

The Info
John Harvard's Brew House
33 Dunster St., Cambridge (and other locations)
www.johnharvards.com