Dining Out Boston

With Ginza one block down and Fugakyu three blocks up, it's no wonder that people overlook Sushi Express, a tiny, nondescript basement sushi cafe. It's probably a good thing considering the black-and-white tiled seating area and slim counter bar couldn't possibly seat more than 10-12 people.

The cheap sushi, not the ambience, is why Sushi Express is the tucked away favorite of Brookline residents. Simple, classic rolls plus a smattering of appetizers are all that is served for prices that will make you blink twice. En route home last evening I picked up a California roll (6 pieces; $3.65) and a special soft-shell crab roll (4 pieces; $5.45). For a little more, I could have rounded out my meal with some miso soup ($1.05), a seaweed salad ($2.65), or any variety of nigiri pieces ($1.05-$1.80)

The laconic Japanese servers handed me my meticulously packaged sushi with an air of gravity that stood in stark contrast to the Japanese pop playing in the background. After I received my change, I lingered a bit to watch him and the other chefs carefully slice some eel before folding it into a roll for a waiting customer.

You get what you pay for at Sushi Express, for the rolls, while delicious, lacked the meticulous craftmanship of those at pricier places and the fish and vegetables did not reeks of freshness. If you're looking to impress a date or a colleague with show-stopping nigiri or specialty rolls, go elsewhere. For a step up from grocery-store sushi and drive-by expediency at extremely reasonable prices, however, there are few better places.

The Info
Sushi Express
1038 Beacon St., Brookline
617-738-5658