Dining Out Boston

It was a weekend of good eating.

The morning after my dinner at Douzo I met Bunches for breakfast at The Paramount. The crisp spring weather had beckoned many a Bostonian early from his bed, and by 9:25am, there was already a very long doubling back from the counter past the elevated metal tables through the restaurant's very narrow interior.

The Paramount's unique seating policy states that customers may not seat themselves and/or reserve seats until after they have braved the cafeteria-style line and actually received their food. Newcomers may scoff at this system, but I can tell you that it's worked well the three times I've visited.

Though overall more breakfast than brunch, the menu is a mix of egg, sausage, pancake, and waffle specials that are considerably inexpensive even outside Beacon Hill. While waiting in line for 18 minutes, I debated between a tomato, basil, & mozzarella omelet served with homefries and toast ($7) or blueberry, banana, strawberry, or apple cinnamon pancakes ($5). To satisfy both my sweet and savory cravings, I ordered strawberry pancakes with a side of sausage ($6.25). Bunches opted for the breakfast special, two eggs, homefries, toast, and coffee ($5).

The light, fluffy pancakes displayed a flavor that was distinctively not Bisquick, i.e. fresh, homemade, and probably with an extra egg or two. Fruit distribution in the pancake itself was lacking, unsurprising given the line cooks drop small strawberry slivers in a plain base batter that is then dripped and flipped in less than a minute. The breakfast sausages were the best I've tasted in Boston: three thick hearty links with nary globule of excess gristle and filled with a rich, smoky taste.

Bunches affirmed that the sausages were superb, and called his eggs "great", noting that they were on par with Mike's City Diner. I give The Paramount a slightly lesser rating because 1) Mike's pancakes are larger, cheaper, and absolutely jammed with fruit and 2) the unpredictability of Paramount's wait time.

The Paramount, much like the rest of Charles St., is lovely, absolutely lovely, but I would not recommend going with a party larger than three or four. The loud, crowded interior is great for a rousing early morning meal; casual coffee-drinkers and solo diners may be annoyed by the pressure to eat and clear a space for incoming customers. Sources also tell me The Paramount serves a decent lunch and dinner that is equally inexpensive and not nearly as crowded.

The Info
The Paramount
44 Charles St., Boston
www.paramountboston.com