Dining Out Boston

In the summer I could survive on caesar salad, lobster, and ice cream.

Ice cream and salad are easy enough for me to purchase or make at home but lobster presents a bit more of an ethical challenge. Make no mistake, I am a carnivore in every sense of the word and make no exception, regardless how cute, young, or fuzzy a particular creature is. I probably would eat puppy if Stop n' Shop sold it.

Cooking lobster at home poses a problem because of its execution via boiling water. Last summer Bunches bought several large lobsters one Saturday night and I was assigned the task of clapping the lid upon the pot after he had "humanely" dropped them in head first. What followed was not, as you might imagine, an endearing Annie Hallesque moment, but rather a truly horrifying experience. I made the mistake of simply placing the lid on the pot and walking away instead of actually holding it down. The lobster surged forth from its deathly hottub, knocked the lid off with his head, and uttered a terrifying shriek. Bunches rushed forward to replace the lid while I vowed to leave lobster slaughter to the pros.

On Friday when I decided I simply must have lobster for dinner, I took advantage of the opportunity to try B&G Oysters, Ltd., which besides being known for its fabulous selection of oysters (duh), is also cited for its decadent lobster roll ($24). I should clarify as you roll your eyes at the price that this is not your standard Cape Cod pinic table lobster roll, but one supposedly made only with premium tail and claw meat.

B&G Oysters is smack dab in the stylish South End, so bear in mind when dining there you're paying for real estate as well as food. That being said, I was slightly disappointed with B&G's cramped basement locale that resembled the inside of a safety deposit box. The equally tiny outdoor sitting area (also basement-level–no people-watching for you) was already full so Bunches and I took a seat at an elevated table adjacent to the bar.

Service was "eh": cool, efficient, and lacking in any genuine enthusiasm. The waitstaff seemed too cool for school, and, it seemed, attentiveness, as I had to ask twice for ketchup. The menu is a short list of salmon, tuna, and lobster dishes with an extensive selection of oysters on the halfshell ($2.25 each) and a large array of wines by the bottle and glass. I am pleased to report that the lobster roll, served on a lightly buttered, toasted hot dog roll with a side of overcooked fries, slaw, and sliced pickles, did live up to expectation. The rich, fleshy lobster meat was nearly all tail and lightly dressed with mayonnaise, fresh lemon, and chopped scallions. Given the price, I was irked by the underwhelming sides and wondered why the chef didn't spring for something more sophisticated. Bunches gave high marks to his meal, a $24 special of blue marlin served over sauteed calamari and encircled with seasoned artichoke puree.

Two glasses of wine and two entrees set us back several twenties, so no more fine dining for a month. Or at least three days. The deliciously fruity glass of rose, the laudable lobster roll, and the absence of wailing shellfish was, however, worth the expense.

The Info
B&G Oysters, Ltd.
550 Tremont St., Boston
www.bandgoysters.com