April 21st, 2006
Sultan’s Kitchen
I'm on a falafel kick.
Ever since I had that my falafel and hummus plate at Steve's Restaurant last weekend, I've been itchin' for more of those deep-fried chickpea balls. But then remembered my New Year's Resolution: Try New Food. So, I compromised and went to Sultan's Kitchen but ordered the same falafel dish.
Sultan's Kitchen's version was cheaper ($7.75 as opposed to $8.95) and of only slightly lesser quality than Steve's. The falafel, shaped into small cylinders, was somewhat dry and crusty, and could have definitely benefited from some softening yogurt or herb sauce. The tabbouleh was tastier if only because it featured carrots and scallions, which are absent in most conventional versions like that served at Steve's. However, because tomatoes and parsley were less dominant ingredients in this version, the overall tabbouleh aesthetic was less colorful and inviting. All hummus is clearly not created equal because, Sultan's, while very satisfying and flavorful, lacked the creamy richness of Steve's .
Before I prematurely peg Sultan's Kitchen as a lesser alternative to Steve's Restaurant, I'll interrupt myself to assert that Sultan's is known far better for its Turkish specialties, all of which are made fresh each day and heaped on huge dishes along a blue-tiled serving counter. While waiting for my dinner I stole a glance at platters of Patlican Musakka (cubes of eggplant, pepper, and tomato braised with ground lamb herb sauce), fried artichoke hearts, and Nohut Piyazi (chickpeas cooked with diced tomatoes, red onion, olive oil, and lemon). Sultan's also offers a far more extensive selection of kebab sandwiches and cold salads, which, along with the rest of the menu, are all under $10.
Sultan's Kitchen is located in the heart of the financial district and therefore hopping at lunchtime but desolate after 5pm. The portions are generous and the price is right, making it a worthy choice for large group takeout. And although the small sit-down area is decorated with elegant Turkish artwork and numerous restaurant awards, the ghosttown surroundings render it less appealing for a dinner out.
The Info
Sultan's Kitchen
116 State St., Boston
www.sultans-kitchen.com
April 24th, 2006 at 12:19 pm
I haven’t been to Sultan’s lately, but from what I remember their felafel is ho-hum. Felafel King on Winter Street makes far better felafel sandwiches for a better price (four dollars). But Sultan’s is worth trying for their white-board specialties, which in my view suprass Steve’s in quality. The vegetable plate is a pricy lunch at ten bucks, but it’s incredible.