April 16th, 2006
Steve’s Restaurant
Given the beautiful weather on Saturday, it seemed silly to adhere to my scheduled plans, which were to read inside in between trips to the laundromat. Instead I participated in the consumer frenzy known as Newbury Street On A Saturday Afternoon, and bought a pretty penny's worth of spring clothes, because, of course, I needed them for work. As expected the Boston Brahmins and all varieties of poseurs extraordinaire were out and about with their obscenely small dogs and their real and/or fake Gucci sunglasses. Peppering the mix were out-of-town marathon runners with plastic BAA tote bags and expandable maps of Boston.
I won't bore you with where I shopped and what I bought because my fashion taste is pretty prosaic, but I will say a few words about Steve's Restaurant, the Greek-American joint where I stopped for a quick bite before heading to the newly-opened H&M.
Steve's serves a standard array of Greek food (falafel, hummus, Greek salad, moussaka, kebob sandwiches) along with some specials (Saturday's was roast leg of lamb) and some American staples like burgers, cold-cut sandwiches, and french fries.
I give Steve's high marks for three reasons. First, the food is well-seasoned and satisfying but not heavy. The fresh quality of the fruit and vegetables suggests they're brought in daily. Second, the portions are generous: over-stuffed kebob and falafel sandwiches require two hands to hold and entree plates are almost always served with either Greek salad or pita bread. Third, everything on the menu is less than $15 and most items are less than $10, making Steve's definitely one of the most affordable sit-down places to eat on Newbury Street. Alas, no outside dining, but, hey, the sun only shines in Boston about twelve days a year.
My entree, the falafel plate ($8.95), came with three large falafel balls dressed with a creamy herb sauce in addition to about a cup each of humus and tahini, and a basket of pita bread. The homemade hummus, sprinkled with paprika and crowned with a olive, was several steps above even the best Trader Joe varieties, having a much creamier, richer texture. Even more enjoyable was the tahini, loaded with fresh parsley, finely chopped onions and tomatoes, and nutty sesame seed paste. Although the falafel was a bit over-fried and the interior chick-pea mash slightly dry, the creamy sauce that lightly coated each semisphere made up for any blandness.
I can't get enough of Steve's fantastic hummus, but next time I'm forcing myself to try a chicken kebob sandwich or some grape leaves. Steve's other virtue is its very cheap breakfast menu, which offers combinations of eggs, pancakes, toast, and bacon for less than $5. Early shoppers might take advantage of this option, while late-risers should stop in for lunch just before maxxing out the credit card.
The Info
Steve's Restaurant
316 Newbury St., Boston
617-267-1817