February 6th, 2006
So Much for Solas
People often assert the fact that Ireland has no distinct cuisine, but those people are wrong. Although there are plenty of blurry boundaries regarding the origin of fish and chips, bangers and mash, or shephard's pie, there are a number of distinctly Irish dishes dishes, e.g. soda bread, colcannon (potatoes and cabbage), and champ (mashed potatoes with scallions). Granted, most of these dishes revolve around potatoes and are not the most complex tastes in the world, but they fill you up and accompany a pint of Guinness nicely.
In Boston, there are a number of Irish bars/restaurants that serve fairly decent versions of popular Irish and Irish-American foods. Solas is not one of them.
On Friday I felt like a meaty, starchy bar meal with a tall glass of beer, so on a whim Bunches and I stopped at Solas. I was wary at first of the prices, which were slightly higher than the typical Boston Irish pub, but I squelched my suspicions by hoping the portions and/or quality would warrant the extra dought. Not so, unfortunately. For $14 I expected the fish and chips to be more than a small pile of bland french fries, a single piece of fried haddock, and a tablespoon of coleslaw. Thinking I had just ordered the wrong thing, I glanced around at other patrons and saw similarly small dishes that no one was devouring with gusto. Bunches proclaimed his hamburger to be so-so and his Greek salad satisfying but not spectacular. Thank God we had also ordered tall, glasses of Guinness to ease the pain.
Location is perhaps Solas' only virtue, as it is located inside the Lenox hotel just steps from the Boston Public Library and the Copley T stop. Its decor is charming faux Irish, with dark wood, strange modern light fixtures, and an upstairs filled with nooks and crannies. Friendly waitresses and prompt service make it a good place for drinking but eat dinner elsewhere.
The Info
710 Boyleston St., Boston
617-536-5600