January 18th, 2006
Pho Lemon Grass
It's the loveliest sort of weather outside, with horrendous gusts of wind and rain spitting at you from all directions. I almost miss the cold.
On days like this the best possible lunch I can imagine is a big bowl of soup, with or without bread depending on the type. Today, it was without bread but with many noodles and bean sprouts and chili peppers at Pho Lemon Grass, 239 Harvard St., Brookline. For $4-8 you can sip, slurp, and spoon different varieties of pho, the Vietnamese soup that traditionally consists of beef broth and egg noodles.
I could fit my entire face in the steaming bowl of Pho Fisherman I ordered, and indeed I almost did just to get the last of the slippery scallions. Tender shrimps and chunks of crab and octopus meat floated throughout, along with some curious round "fish cakes." A plate of greens and sprouts is served separately and from past experiences I've learned that it's best to add them all at once to let them soften in the soup. My dining partner in crime ordered a zestier non-pho soup, with red tomato wedges and chicken in a hot-and-sour broth. Both soups really hit the spot but next time I think I'll risk a burned tonguge and order the spicy pho chicken.
Pho Lemon Grass is less than a five-minute walk from the Coolidge Corner T stop and has comfortable two-person tables by the window for people-watching. The warm lighting, soft-spoken staff, and beautiful wall mural made me wonder if this place changed from spa to restaurant overnight. I'm sure this place is less relaxing in the evening, when the main room is often almost completely full and diners-in-waiting sip cocktails and jabber at the bar.
For a simple, satisfying lunch on a rainy day Pho Lemon Grass is just about perfect, but if you have more of a rumble in your belly and/or the sun is shining I would go elsewhere for heartier fare. Although I finished my big bowl o' pho just one and a half hours ago I'm heading to the kitchen for an apple…
The Info
Pho Lemon Grass
239 Harvard St., Brookline
617-731-8600
www.pholemongrass.com